I decided to not spray the black marking on the SatV, mainly because the size of the rocket provided me a much better 'canvas' to show off my handbrushing skills, easier masking with less tape and bulky masking materials, and handbrushing will make it easier to avoid paint bleed under the masking I will use, and a more controlled way to paint around the many details on the Vacu-formed wraps that will have decals laid upon them.
! Important caveat!
The instructions provided on the DVD are extremely well thought out and done, perfectly great for completing the rocket in the least amount of time, using the least amount of materials. However, after viewing them, I decided that since I have the specialized brushes, and the skill to use them, I wanted the best control over the paint application, so I decided to use my handbrushing skills. The instructions called for the use of a fine tip Sharpie®, but knowing that it would run when I sprayed Lacquer clear, you could also just paint the borders, let it dry, then mask over that border and use a rattle can or airbrush.
First, I will discuss the masking materials I will use on the rocket. My main masking medium will be painter's tape, but as always, there is tape you should use, and tape you should not use. I will also be using Micro Mask® Liquid masking medium, which being water soluble, made it perfect for my solvent based paint, any water soluble paint would dissolve the masking medium.
'Masking Tape' vs. Painter's Tape
'Masking' Tape has become a generic term, much like 'Duct' Tape. Most of us are familiar with, and have even used Masking tape. But that is a far cry from Painter's Tape, which has been designed for use by painters, and is especially important for a Master Modeler.
This is 'Masking Tape'
Advantages of 'Masking' Tape
There are none, besides price, and if price motivates you, best stop reading this Model Master's Blog!
Disadvantages of 'Masking' Tape
Leaves sticky, hard to clean residue. (Arrrgghh)
Must be removed quickly-within hours of applying so it comes off cleanly. (not good for water or solvent based paints)
Paint may stick to the surface, causing paint to peel up when tape is removed. (Which was the reason we used masking in the first place!)
Water-based paint can cause tape to buckle or pucker, letting paint seep onto surface below. (Nothing worse than buckling, when you notice it, it is both too early, and too late, paint lift is the usual result)
Oil-based paint will degrade masking tape more quickly, seeping through the surface. (remember, solvent based paints are 'Hot', a good painter's tape will hold up, and still provide a crisp line)
This is just one type of Painter's tape, Blue is most available, I use Scotch® brand made by 3M®, although your choice may differ, make sure it is Painter's Tape.
Advantages of Painter's tape
Designed for painting and doesn't pucker or buckle when paint is applied.
Available in many different widths.
Takes a good 'Burnish', lessening the chances of paint bleeding under.
Leaves clean lines.
Available in many stores.
May be left over several days and still comes off cleanly.
Is sticky enough to pull of liquid masking medium.
Modeler's Tape
Specialized model tape is indispensable when painting any model. It is thin, flexible, and great when used as a fine lining base tape, then you can lay down some painter's tape to keep the model tape use as little as possible, while still giving great coverage, like when you need to use it to tack down masking paper for larger areas. I use Tamiya® tape, it is the easiest to work with and find, online or at most hobby stores.
This can be a very good way to mask off fine areas that tape just wont stick to, or vacu-formed areas that stick out and are just too hard to mask off with any kind of tape, mainly because of the tape width. Since there are many protuberances, wiring tunnels, etc. that are on the SatV Lift body, and since I am going to use my superior skills at handbrushing, (Had to get in one shameless plug..) I will make use of liquid masking medium
The most popular brand is Micro Mask® made by Microscale Industries®
http://www.microscale.com/
The most important thing to know is that because it can be cleaned up with water, it is best used on solvent (petroleum) based paints, because any water soluble paint will dissolve the masking medium, rendering it worthless for it's intended use. Since I am using Lacquers, this will pose no problem.
It is applied by brush (use the finest natural hair brush, synthetics are just pathetic, it is H2o soluble), to anyplace you don't want paint to adhere, mostly places where tape is useless, because no matter how precise you are, paint will most likely bleed under. It can be lifted when the paint is dry, with a !Moist! H2o Q-tip®, a careful hobby knife, or like I do, a scrap piece of the painter's tape that you used as masking. The most important thing to remember is that it should be used for masking places that tape will not work, not gobbed on as a replacement for a well thought out masking scheme.
Now that I've given my two cents on masking...
It's Time To Mask off and Start painting the scheme on my Apogee Saturn V!
