Detailing the Command Module

The Command Module and Launch Escape Tower were pretty stark as they were molded styrene parts, so I decided to do some detailing, which I did in three stages, wash, color, clear.

I first checked out any pics on the web I could find that showed the details on the command module and recovery tower. The instructions left these details to the Modeler's discretion, only showing black on the rocket bells on the escape tower rockets. Even at 1/70 scale, the details on the command module were quite fine, and as I fashioned my detail plan, one always had to remember that with such fine details, there will be a lot of  " that dosen't look quite right", so with some thinner and a soft cloth, it was wiped away, so I could try another time. (the reds and black were hard, because, being three of them, if one looked right, the other two looked off, and so on, until all three looked good enough.

I also used a wash, which brought out the details of the CM, without looking like it was painted, merely bringing out the highlights, giving it a 'worked on' look, a look that I felt most resembled the finish it had on launch day.

These details were done with Testor Enamels, which were forgiving to a redo, and when dry, stood up to the Mr. Hobby UV Clear that I was using as a topcoat before and after the decal placement.

The Wash.

I used a dropper to put an amount of thinner that was approx. 3/1 in an appropriate small paint tray, then I used a dropper to mix into it a combination of aluminum, while and flat black Testor enamel paints until the color looked good. It is a wash, so the point is to use the capillary action of the pigmented thinner to flow around the details, without leaving a noticeable 'paint-like' finish. If there was too much pigment, dip your brush into clean thinner, and brush away the pigments until you get a nice 'worked on' look, that let the details pop out, without diminishing the white of the molded part.

The wash will collect in places, but just use the brush, blotted on a paper towel, to 'wick' away any wash that accumulates in those places. What you are aiming for, is a nice even, 'contrasting' effect.  less is best, so dip your brush into the clear thinner, and 'wash' away any places that look too painted on.. What you are looking for, is a surface that looks, off-white, with the struts and other details highlighted.

Before wash and color. *Pic Courtesy Apogeerockets.com

Notice the details, and how the camera flash made them stand out. I will be doing the same thing with the wash, and adding some details with colors. The shadows created by the flash does much the same thing that a wash does, bringing out the highlights in the flat colored styrene molded piece.

After wash and color.

The wash helps to make the painted details stand out a bit more. Now it is ready for the lacquer clear coat, which will make it easier to apply the decals.

After the clear.

The clear coat will mute the wash a bit, which makes the overall effect that much nicer. Remember, clear coat only after the colors are dry, using several light mist coats. The Lacquer will hold the enamels, just make sure you use mist coats, only after the clear has enough time to tack up, but not completely dry between coats. Remember to keep the wash to places that need it, less is best, as you can see the cleaner white portion that the Launch Escape Tower is attached to. Clean lines help the wash stand out, maximizing the effect.

Now that the Command Module is finished, the next post will tackle the Service Module. I had a hard time deciding how to tackle that detail job, since the wrap looked so good by itself. 

Aerotech Mantis Launch Pad Arrival plus Twelve hours for the Aerotech Initiator build

The Aerotech Mantis Launch Pad Kit is finally in my possession!!

What a glorious respite from the details of the Apogee Saturn V!

After all the nuances that the SatV presented me since I first opened up the box in March, it was a cool diversion to get the Initiator. I gave myself one day to put this great rocket together, paint, decals, everything. Since I was already waiting for items to be delivered for my finish work on the Saturn V, It was a perfect time to just bang together the kit rocket, with a deadline that only a Master Model Rocketeer could make, blog and all. This Rocket will make a great opening act for the launches of my Apogee Saturn V.

This is going to be a total Mac Gyver build, using only the finishes I have at hand, which meant it will be a black and white paint scheme, which wont look too much off the red and white scheme that the Initiator calls for.

Primers and paints were the biggest obstacle, since there was a humidity index of 72 degrees and an air temp of 80f. I needed to prime, sand, prime, (4 coats), then color, sand color (also four coats), with the nose cone, being molded plastic, needing more than a bit of sanding to get rid of the molding marks. That was the most challenging, since, after each coat, I had to quick hang it in the cool and low humidity of the staging area.. (my laundry room, which had the lowest temp and humidity, 65f and 60%).

The instructions were somewhat disappointing, but the addition of the 29mm engine retainer only required a few steps and measurements to make sure that all would fit with the great Fin-Lok construction. I would have gotten the rocket together in quite a few hours sooner, but I had to keep rechecking measurements and fin placement, because, once it is glued up, there is no going back!

Motor Tube Assembly complete. The body tube and nosecone are drying from the color coats and three of Mr. Super Clear. This was what kept me from finishing the Initator in my self imposed deadline of twelve hours. No fear though, I have done almost all the work needed, just an hour or two to complete the fit of the fins, attaching the parachute, the application of decals, and final fit and clear coat(s).  All in all, a great build on an intimidating schedule...

Ready for final fit and finish, fins and Motor Tube Assembly! That will have to wait for tomoorow, but a great (almost) one day build!

Carpe Diem!

The Masking Post

 Today I will talk a bit about masking the Apogee Saturn V, and why I decided to hand brush the black on the uppermost stage, and where and why I deviated from the exceptional instructions provided by Apogee.

 I decided to not spray the black marking on the SatV, mainly because the size of the rocket provided me a much better 'canvas' to show off my handbrushing skills, easier masking with less tape and bulky masking materials, and handbrushing will make it easier to avoid paint bleed under the masking I will use, and a more controlled way to paint around the many details on the Vacu-formed wraps that will have decals laid upon them.

 ! Important caveat!

 The instructions provided on the DVD are extremely well thought out and done, perfectly great for completing the rocket in the least amount of time, using the least amount of materials.  However, after viewing them, I decided that since I have the specialized brushes, and the skill to use them, I wanted the best control over the paint application, so I decided to use my handbrushing skills. The instructions called for the use of a fine tip Sharpie®, but knowing that it would run when I sprayed Lacquer clear, you could also just paint the borders, let it dry, then mask over that border and use a rattle can or airbrush.

 First, I will discuss the masking materials I will use on the rocket. My main masking medium will be painter's tape, but as always, there is tape you should use, and tape you should not use. I will also be using Micro Mask® Liquid masking medium, which being water soluble, made it perfect for my solvent based paint, any water soluble paint would dissolve the masking medium.

 'Masking Tape' vs. Painter's Tape

 'Masking' Tape has become a generic term, much like 'Duct' Tape. Most of us are familiar with, and have even used Masking tape. But that is a far cry from Painter's Tape, which has been designed for use by painters, and is especially important for a Master Modeler.

 This is 'Masking Tape'

 Yes, we've seen it, used it, and it may have been perfect for that job, or more likely, f*&$!!d up.. the job most times we needed to mask off a place for a generic paint job.

 Advantages of 'Masking' Tape

 There are none, besides price, and if price motivates you, best stop reading this Model Master's Blog!

Disadvantages of 'Masking' Tape

 Leaves sticky, hard to clean residue. (Arrrgghh)
 Must be removed quickly-within hours of applying so it comes off cleanly. (not good for water or solvent based paints)
 Paint may stick to the surface, causing paint to peel up when tape is removed. (Which was the reason we used masking in the first place!)
 Water-based paint can cause tape to buckle or pucker, letting paint seep onto surface below. (Nothing worse than buckling, when you notice it, it is both too early, and too late, paint lift is the usual result)
 Oil-based paint will degrade masking tape more quickly, seeping through the surface. (remember, solvent based paints are 'Hot', a good painter's tape will hold up, and still provide a crisp line)

This is just one type of Painter's tape, Blue is most available, I use Scotch® brand made by 3M®, although your choice may differ, make sure it is Painter's Tape.

 Advantages of Painter's tape

 Designed for painting and doesn't pucker or buckle when paint is applied.
 Available in many different widths.
 Takes a good 'Burnish', lessening the chances of paint bleeding under.
 Leaves clean lines.
 Available in many stores.
 May be left over several days and still comes off cleanly.
 Is sticky enough to pull of liquid masking medium.

 Modeler's Tape

 Specialized model tape is indispensable when painting any model. It is thin, flexible, and great when used as a fine lining base tape, then you can lay down some painter's tape to keep the model tape use as little as possible, while still giving great coverage, like when you need to use it to tack down masking paper for larger areas.  I use Tamiya® tape, it is the easiest to work with and find, online or at most hobby stores.

 Liquid Masking medium

 This can be a very good way to mask off fine areas that tape just wont stick to, or vacu-formed areas that stick out and are just too hard to mask off with any kind of tape, mainly because of the tape width. Since there are many protuberances, wiring tunnels, etc. that are on the SatV Lift body, and since I am going to use my superior skills at handbrushing, (Had to get in one shameless plug..) I will make use of liquid masking medium

The most popular brand is Micro Mask® made by  Microscale Industries®
 http://www.microscale.com/

 The most important thing to know is that because it can be cleaned up with water, it is best used on solvent (petroleum) based paints, because any water soluble paint will dissolve the masking medium, rendering it worthless for it's intended use. Since I am using Lacquers, this will pose no problem.

 It is applied by brush (use the finest natural hair brush, synthetics are just pathetic, it is H2o soluble), to anyplace you don't want paint to adhere, mostly places where tape is useless, because no matter how precise you are, paint will most likely bleed under. It can be lifted when the paint is dry, with a !Moist!  H2o Q-tip®, a careful hobby knife, or like I do, a scrap piece of the painter's tape that you used as masking. The most important thing to remember is that it should be used for masking places that tape will not work, not gobbed on as a replacement for a well thought out masking scheme.

 Now that I've given my two cents on masking...

 It's Time To Mask off and Start painting the scheme on my Apogee Saturn V!

 


 

There was a Blue Moon this morning..  Quite appropriate I think...

Blue Moon 55-200mm DX Nikkor AF-S @ 200mm Zoom Shutter setting hand held from the balcony.

Color Coats - Why I didn't use them on this project.

Traditionally, Primer and/or Primer-Surfacer coats are followed by a color coat.  However, when I experimented with a topcoat of white from one of the leading hobby lines, I was less than impressed with the results. The color coat, a solvent based lacquer (Remember, I am using lacquers for their durability and resistance to dirt and stains, this will be a flying rocket), did not cover well, and it looked more like a wash than a color coat. Since, just as with the real Saturn V, each coat of finish added extra weight to the rocket, and the amount of color coat I would need to use to cover the rocket would be time consuming, not to mention, more expensive, I used very fine grained Primer-Surfacers, white, and black, because as lacquers they would lay flat, and the very fine grades (1000 for white, 1500 for the black areas),  made it possible to use ever finer grits of sanding medium (up to 3000 grit), which gave me the smoothest surface, which looked like a color coat, without wasting money and time on a color coat that didn't quite cover well.

Example: This is the Industry standard color coat over the Mr. Surfacer 1200, which sprayed a nice gray undercoat. (Industry Standard meaning the most popular line of hobby colors.)

This is the coverage that resulted.

Although the picture dosen't show it as well, there was considerable issues with the color looking more like a wash, than a true paint job. it also had quite a bit of shine, even though it was a Matte/Flat color.

I only masked off the rocket pods, and it took 4 mist coats to even get this poor level of coverage, while the surfacer covered in just two mist coats.

That is a big concern, since, as you can see,  there was very little coverage, considering that I used a whole 100ml can of a not inexpensive color coat for just that small area. I could sand and finish the fine grained white and black surfacers, they would look and feel the smoothness from 2500-4000 grit sanding sponges, while retaining that flat look.  The smoothness of the surfacer would also provide a great finish for laying decals without the need for a gloss coat to give better adhesion. When you know the proper way to finish a Lacquer, whether it be a primer, primer-surfacer, or color coat, those extra ounces of color coat were, to me, a waste of both time and money. That's why I just used the Mr. Hobby Primers and Primer-Surfacers, which, in the end, gave a more realistic, almost utilitarian finish, which, to me, best reflected the reason for a finish on the rocket in the first place, the white, to cover the aluminum skin to prevent corrosion, and the black areas, which were there to give reference marks so that any rolling of the rocket could be confirmed.

The primer and primer-surfacer gave me the best finish to work, and spared me the expense and time that I would have had to do after the color coats were laid down. Why repeat the work twice, when those coats worked and looked like an actual color coat finish.

You be the judge...

That, to me, most reflected the finish as both utilitarian and aesthetic.

What do you think?

A note about Sanding

 Above: These are the Mr. Hobby products I used for the primer and finish coats.

Thanks to Red Frog Hobbies! The best selection, service and shipping!

Sanding. The one word that can strike terror through the heart of many a modeler. Have no fear! We at the Vehicle Assembly Building know what you're feeling, so let the Finish Expert give you a few pointers...

"Hey, Finish Expert, why cant I just go to the hardware store and grab any can of paint that looks good and isn't too expensive?"

FE:  Nobody's stopping you Dumbass (thx to Red Foreman) you can put any old can of spray you want on your model.. But if you want it to look good and stay shiny forever, you have to know how to Sand and Polish.

DA: "Sand and Polish?", "What kind of sick joke is that?"

FE:  "Calm down Dumbass, Thats Polish, as in shoes..."

DA: "O.K., I get it, but I don't..."

FE: It's all about making things smoother... here, lemme show you. If you were painting a house, you would probably start out with a low grit sandpaper like an 80 grit perhaps. The higher the number on the paper, or 'Sanding Medium', the smoother it will make your finish, because smoothness will make a good finish look even better, but it will never be a remedy for poor product choice.

DA: "Product Choice...?

FE: Yep. When you know what finish type you are going to use, you then use one brand to ensure consistency of product. That means No Buying Paint Thinner at The Corner Hardware Store! I cant stress this enough. What you put on your model is the most important decision you can make.

DA: Well, that all sounds good Mr. Moneybags...

FE: Hang on there, it isn't about cost, it is about consistency. Sure, you can go out and buy the absolute best model finishes there are, but if you use the wrong, or off brand mixing agent(s), I guarantee you that finish will run for it's life, or eat right into your painstakingly constructed masterpiece. I use good, working finishes from Mr. Hobby (Shameless Plug),  which, after finding a dealer in the U.S. ( Thank you Red Frog Hobbies! (Shameless Plug #2), turned out to be a remarkable finish, with a consistency that works across all of their products lines at a very competitive price, even w/ shipping costs factored in.

DA: I thought we were talking about sanding, and your talking about primers and paint...

FE: Exactly. See, if you choose the wrong finish, you may not even be able to sand it, much less polish it to its intended lustre...  But with the right finish for your purpose, sanding can be easy, even... Fun.

DA: Fun!? Yeah, like sanding is ever... fun.

FE: Sanding..., well, that's never fun, but Finishing; that IS fun.

DA: Finishing?

FE: The difference between sanding and finishing, between an ok paint job and an exceptional paint  job, without ever spraying one mist coat too many.


FE: I used a fine 'grit' Lacquer Primer/surfacer, which was sanded with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit combination of paper and sanding sponge, the lacquer is able to stand up to wet sanding without harming the underlying materials (cardboard tubes).  the same methods will be used for the white and black topcoats, where the ultra fine grits will actually make the surface so smooth, it will shine like a gloss topcoat, and will give a great surface for the decals to set up on, then all will be covered with Mr. Super Clear matte finish to provide a coat over the decals, and prevent any fingermarks from marring the paint, and can be washed with a simple damp sponge.  And that, DA, is how you apply a rock hard finish to your rocket that will look good for a very long time.




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

The last topcoats of base white are done, I will be starting the masking of the black striping (which was used as a reference to see the roll of the rocket in flight). I am going to use a brush to apply the black, as it lays quite nice, and there still is too much area to use an airbrush effectively. I should have it all done by tomorrow eve, (obviously, humidity, weather, and pure old research kept me from making this deadline) and then it's decals, clearcoat, and then the fine detail painting of the silver areas of the CSM (Command/Service Module).  It will finally start looking like the real thing!

Monday the 20th of July was the anniversary of Apollo 11, so my timeline is a bit off, but having started in March, I thought it was a good time to shoot for, but my vaca was plenty of time to get some good work in.

Cloudy days are great painting days

A few sprinkles of rain isn't going to stop me today, the air is just right with just a bit of breeze, the colors pop out and details are not washed out by the harsh sunlight.  I can get almost all my base coat painting done today..

Hot Paint Tip for Professionals only

A potentially dangerous but great way to get the most out of your precious $$$ can of Mr. White Surfacer 1000 is to  make a 'Hot Can', which will keep that mix in suspension as that can holds the increased pressure from the extra heat.  It really makes a difference, especially when using these fine Primer-Surfacers which need to lay down smooth without washing out detail. A hot can sprays a finer, more intensely vaporized spray, which lays down smooth as glass, lacquer hard as iron, but not 'Hot' in a chemical sense, that the solvents in the finishes you use literally melt the vacu-formed wraps.

I have found the Mr. Hobby line of products to be exceptional in coverage, consistency, and workability.  The products lay well from airbrush, can, and even brush. With such a large area to cover, I elected for can for consistency and appearance, using airbrush and hand brushing for the finest of details.

Now for the ugly legal stuff:

Don't try this at home. The techniques described here are performed under controlled conditions, by a professional with years of experience in the application of lacquer model finishes.  The combination of heat and pressure can go horribly wrong if your dumbass dosen't do it right. So no crybabies..

Part One

Let's Lay Some Primer

Primer is a must-have for any project of this magnitude. Since the model will be exposed to the elements, and subject to launch and recovery, the finish not only has to look good, it must also be a part of the model itself, acting as another layer of strength and protection to The Saturn V Launch Vehicle. That is why I chose a Lacquer finish, it will not only stand up to the rigors of construction unlike a water-based acrylic, it will also have superior hardness and sandability. I can also use acrylics on the details and any acrylic clear will not attack the Lacquer undercoats.

What you'll need

1. A glass batter bowl, which provides for an even heating of the water, a great heat sink for re-warming the can, and a stable platform that is less prone to tip-over and spillage.

2. An accurate chef's grade pocket thermometer. Again, since we are working with heat and pressure, accuracy is very important, so now your temperature, know your pressure.

3. (2) Tea or hand towels.  Two functions. a) Insulates the glass bowl containing the hot water. (b) Prevents any flying shards if the glass happens to shatter, even the best ones do (legal stuff!:)

4. Can of finish, primer or topcoat; Lacquer

What to do

Place the can of paint into the batter bowl. fill with water to the 1/3 level of the can, or just before the water affects the can's buoyancy. (the can will get LIGHTER as product is sprayed, so not too much water.)

Warm the bowl and water in a low power microwave for 4 minutes. The point here is to use the bowl of water as a heat sink, warming the can and keeping it warm.) The water should be no hotter than 120 deg. F Anything above that temperature risks failure of the can.

Wrap the bowl in the towel, placing that on another towel. Put can in the bowl. The can, will take alot of slow heat, so let it warm right up. It should feel hot to the touch, but will not burn you when held in your bare spraying hand.

You will notice right away that the mist is stronger and adhesion is better. This will be especially apparent with a Lacquer finish. The second and subsequent coats will lay better and 'melt' easier into the previous coats, providing a tougher and more detailed look.

So hey Kiddoes, get out there and 'Hot Can' your next model!

Steve

Editor's Note: There are no towels in the pictures for purposes of clarity. 

Latest Pic

Latest progress.. Note the nice masking job..

Welcome to the Build Shop

I have recently made the purchase of an Apogee Saturn V 1/70th scale Model Rocket. At over 5' tall, and fully flyable, it is a beautifully engineered rocket that will be both challenging and rewarding. I have wanted this kit for many years, and believe I have the tools, skills, and have done much research. Any advice or help along the way is greatly appreciated.

This is my first attempt at chronicling  build, so be easy, help with advice or tips and techniques, and we will all enjoy this blog together.

The Kit will be arriving By 5pm CST 3.5.15

Thanks for taking a look!

 Rocket Guy


Apogee Model Rockets

http://www.megahobby.com/

http://www.hobbylinc.com/

http://www.redfroghobbies.com/